Twixt the desert and the lake

Above Lake Turkana from Eliye Springs Resort – Copyright Rupi Mangat

Publshed Saturday magazine Nation newspaper 6 January 2018

Lake Turkana from Eliye Springs Copyright Rupi Mangat
Lake Turkana from Eliye Springs Copyright Rupi Mangat

I’m in haven floating on the warm waters of the Jade Sea coined by Teleki. It’s the world’s largest permanent lake in the desert and the world’s largest alkaline body officially known as Lake Turkana on the northern reaches of Kenya’s once the ferocious Northern Frontier District.  It’s now a World Heritage Site.

It’s no hardship arriving here now on a 90-minute flight via Kapese the latest dot on the flight path of aircrafts to Turkana. This previously unheard of Turkana village is now the oil headquarters of the recent oil discovered in the ancient desert soils.

Under the midday sun there are no fishermen around at Eliye Springs that’s on the west side of the lake, sixty kilometres north of Lodwar. As recent as ten years ago, the Turkana fished on rafts made of tightly bound doum palm logs and with marked accuracy speared the huge Nile perch and crocodiles.

The springs of Eliye are there –one in a forest of doum palms that l step in to enjoy the natural shower with little fish swimming around me.

The derelict lodge that in the 1960s and 1970s was a high-end lodge is back on its feet as Eliye Springs Resort fashioned as a Turkana village complete with the doum-thatched huts that look like enormous beehives perched on the sand.

Camels in the desert north of Lodwar Copyright Rupi MangatTurkana homestead in the desert Copyright Rupi MangatDesert dune overlooking lake Copyright Rupi Mangat

The road to Lodwar is a tapestry of sand drifts, dry river beds, plains dotted with towering termite mounds, thorn trees and doum palms – thick along the Turkwel River. Pastures of hardy grass break the monotony of brown sands that camouflage everything – the camels and the homesteads. We keep our eyes trained to the volcanic rubble of Loima Hills that line the capital in the absence of any sign boards on the forked trails.

Turkana family further north of Lodwar Copyright Rupi Mangat
Turkana family further north of Lodwar Copyright Rupi Mangat

When we stop for a picnic under the shade of an acacia, a Turkana woman laden with beaded finery and wearing little else than a shuka emerges from the horizon with her four children.

In 1887 and 1888 Count Teleki an Hungarian aristocrat hungering for adventure and Lieutenant Ludwig von Hoehnel armed with an armoury and a few hundred porters took to the northern reaches of today’s Kenya in search of the last of the big geographical mysteries of East Africa – the “great black lake,” or the “Empasso Narok” that the intrepid Joseph Thomson had heard about at Lake Baringo from the Samburu visiting from Mount Kulal in 1883. Teleki and company reached the lake on 5 March 1888; almost half-dead were it not for finding some water in a dry lugga.

Things are changing in this little known vast area of Kenya where political prisoners were flung into obscurity like Mzee Jomo Kenyatta Kenya’s first president and Makhan Singh who advocated for workers’ rights and coined the phrase ‘Uhuru Sasa’.

Turkana man on Loima Hill in Lodwar wearing T-shirt Paid in Turkana dollars Copyright Rupi Mangat
Turkana man on Loima Hill in Lodwar wearing T-shirt Paid in Turkana dollars Copyright Rupi Mangat

It was the norm to see tall, bony Turkana men with elaborate head dresses carrying the ubiquitous head-rest and wooden staff striding the desert to somewhere.  Now everyone’s on a motorbike speeding across desert trails.

Driving into Lodwar we pass a huge tract of an agricultural farm under drip irrigation to feed the county. With a few hours to sunset the makeka market is bustling with the women selling everything woven from the doum palm including thousands of brooms stocked for transport to the city.

Kenyatta House, Lodwar Copyright Rupi Mangat
Kenyatta House, Lodwar Copyright Rupi Mangat

At Kenyatta House where the founding father spent two years from 1959 as a political prisoner the house is empty save for a portrait and a short history of the statesman. The tiny house has to be gazetted l’m told and then turned into a museum with artefacts.

Saint Teresa’s Pastoral Centre on the banks of the Turkwel - mural painted by the Hawa artists in 2004 in Lodwar from paints made of natural desert sands on site. Copyright Rupi Mangat
Saint Teresa’s Pastoral Centre on the banks of the Turkwel – mural painted by the Hawa artists in 2004 in Lodwar from paints made of natural desert sands on site. Copyright Rupi Mangat
Signature on mural of Hawa artists at Saint Teresa’s Pastoral Centre Copyright Rupi Mangat
Signature on mural of Hawa artists at Saint Teresa’s Pastoral Centre Copyright Rupi Mangat

Next stop is to Saint Teresa’s Pastoral Centre on the banks of the Turkwel to see the mural painted by the Hawa artists in 2004. We had driven to Kalokal a fishing village on the lake to collect the soft stones in different colours. These were pounded and made into paint in the reception of the Centre that at the time was under construction. I see the mural but much is blocked by two enormous fridges. No one knows anything about the story of the mural and is indifferent to it.

I wait for the relentless sun to take to the hill where

The statue of Christ watches over the city of Lodwar Copyright Rupi Mangat
The statue of Christ watches over the city of Lodwar Copyright Rupi Mangat

. The sun glides down in the vast horizon and the track up tells the story of Christ.

The Cradle - Lodwar's newest luxury lodge Copyright Rupi Mangat
The Cradle – Lodwar’s newest luxury lodge Copyright Rupi Mangat

Checking in at the Cradle, Lodwar’s newest luxury lodge with delegations from the oil and road companies discussing the future, Turkana is changing rapidly where the Homo emerged and made Turkana the Cradle of Mankind.

At Lodwar

The Cradle - Lodwar's newest luxury lodge Copyright Rupi MangatThe Cradle - Lodwar's newest luxury lodge Copyright Rupi MangatCamels in the desert north of Lodwar Copyright Rupi Mangat

Check in at the Cradle Tented Camp http://www.thecradletentedcamp.com/ for the modern visitor – the tented en suite rooms are fitted with flat screen TV, fridge and there’s WIFI.

St Teresa Pastoral Centre on banks of Turkwel River in Lodwar Copyright Rupi MangatAccomodation at St Teresa Pastoral Centre on banks of Turkwel River in Lodwar Copyright Rupi MangatSaint Teresa’s Pastoral Centre on the banks of the Turkwel - mural painted by the Hawa artists in 2004 in Lodwar from paints made of natural desert sands on site. Copyright Rupi Mangat

On a budget go to Saint Teresa’s Pastoral Centre: Phone: (+254-54) 21.468, Email: dol@wnet.com  – en suite rooms by Turkwel River.

There are many local airlines flying the route to Turkana’s different spots like Lodwar and Loiyangalani. Turkana is a vast area and impossible to do in a visit – so it’s a great destination to visit many times to places like Nariokotome to see fossil of the 1.6 million year old Turkana Boy, fishing in the lake, meeting the people and more.

 

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