In search of a palanquin
Published Saturday magazine, Nation newspaper 29 April 2017

Lounging in the circular living room of Grogan’s Castle with stunning views of Kilmanjaro’s two peaks Mawenzi and Kibo on the western side, the Pare mountain in Tanzania on the southern side and the plains of Tsavo on the eastern side, l chance upon an issue of Old Africa with a really interesting story of Lake Chala –which leads us to this little visited jewel lake in the caldera of Kilimanjaro straddling Kenya and Tanzania.
It’s a story of an epic expedition in 1891 by a woman – May French Sheldon – an American explorer and writer. Way ahead of her time, she left London unaccompanied by a male escort carrying gold rings to present to African chiefs and people who would help her in her explorations.
She was obviously a woman of means. She hired porters to carry her in her palanquin when she tired of marching. Adventurous, free spirited she explored Lake Chala – and while the men in her entourage were afraid of climbing down the steep sides of the caldera where the enchanting jade lake lay, she scrambled down to reach the waters.
I wonder if she swam in it because at the time Grogan hadn’t put in his dwarf crocs imported from Madagascar in the hope of farming them for their skins. But she did leave her palanquin buried somewhere in the caldera in the hope that if she returned she’d find it.
Fast forward to present. Driving out of Taveta the busy town on the Kenyan-Tanzanian border that’s surrounded by farms irrigated by canals many from Grogan’s time between 1930 and 1950, the road is rough with white dust blowing. Parts look like moonscape. The plan is to stop at the lake (look for the palanquin) and continue to Amboseli National Park driving along the volcanic range of the Chyulus.
The lake isn’t signposted, so it’s a little confusing which dusty track to take. A local boda-boda points to the direction, the GPS confirms it. I’m fascinated by Sheldon’s determination to find the lake where many still pass it today totally unaware of this pristine lake.
The first rough track leads us to the rim– which reveals the stunning jewelled blue lake in the crater 300 feet below. There’s no path leading down the steep slopes – but l remember in 2011 we parked by a path.
Turning around –we find the right dusty moonscape route with the help of the GPS to another part of the rim with a path. The jewelled lake shimmers in below in the otherwise non-descript hill on Kilimanjaro’s slopes.
It’s a fascinating lake – deep, almost two kilometres down. Sheldon’s imagination went riot when she wrote of her Chala expedition – she talks of gigantic crocodiles which couldn’t have been but also of the rich forest and wildlife and the lake full of fish. The forest is there but thinner and the fish – the endemic Lake Chala tilapia (Oreochromis hunteri), that during her time was plentiful is now listed Critically Endangered on the IUCN Red list – one step short of going extinct
In current times there’s an exciting find – a new diatom species floating on Chala’s water – called Afrocymbella barkeri. Diatoms are algae with silica cell walls that do not decompose. Because Chala is very deep, its sediments are not often disturbed which helps to preserve them. According to the scientific journal, a climate record has been collected relying on the diatoms going back 25,000 years. The plan is to return for further drilling into the sediments to unlock the past.
High on the rim, wings spread and it’s the African fish eagle circling the lake. The men run down, take a quick dip safe in the knowledge that Grogan’s crocodiles have all been killed by the local fishermen (but in 2002 a young British girl was killed by one while swimming). The fishermen aren’t around, the palanquin isn’t found because it’s too late and we have to reach our destination while there’s still light.
Travel Taveta
Explore the off-the beaten roads. From Taveta, drive to Chala. Carry a picnic lunch and water – it’s very hot. Swim in the beautiful lake at your own risk – but it’s very refreshing.
Taveta to Amboseli via Loitokitok – the road is murrum almost to Loitokitok. It’s a beautiful drive with stunning views of Mawenzi, Kilimanjaro shorter peak. A lot of the land is under farming – tomatoes.
Distance: Nairobi to Voi-328 km
Voi to Taveta -100km
Taveta to Loitokitok – 80 km
Loitokitok to Kimana Gate Amboseli National Park – 30 km
Loitokitok to Erimito Gate Amboseli National Park – 63 km
Stay at: Taveta – at Grogan’s Castle
https://loveandroaddiaries.wordpress.com/2017/01/23/hotel-review-grogans-castle-hotel/ built by Grogan colourful character of the Cape to Cairo walk between 1898 and 1900 – supposedly for the love of a woman.
or
Lake Jipe KWS www.kws.go.ke – inexpensive self-catering bandas on L. Jipe –carry your food to cook. Enjoy game drives in the southern part of Tsavo West National Park that shares the international border with northern Tanzania.
Check KWS for current rates and advisory into national parks.
Or Lake Jipe Safari Camp http://lakejipesafaricamp.com/ by the KWS gate to Lake Jipe
Customer
The point of view of your article has taught me a lot, and I already know how to improve the paper on gate.oi, thank you. https://www.gate.io/ar/signup/XwNAU
Customer
Everything what you want to know about pills. Drugs information sheet.
https://finasteridest.com/ cheap propecia for sale
All trends of medicament. Medscape Drugs & Diseases.
Customer
can i get generic clomid without dr prescription how to get clomid price or where can i buy generic clomid without insurance
http://proud2bamericans.com/__media__/js/netsoltrademark.php?d=clomiphenes.online cost of clomid now
[url=http://ww35.envychic.com/__media__/js/netsoltrademark.php?d=clomiphenes.online]where can i get cheap clomid[/url] where can i get clomid and [url=http://www.byyysc.com/home.php?mod=space&uid=801865]where can i get cheap clomid for sale[/url] where to get clomid pills
Customer
zithromax z-pak buy zithromax no prescription or zithromax z-pak
http://www.scfsllc.org/__media__/js/netsoltrademark.php?d=azithromycins.online zithromax antibiotic
[url=http://www.oleproduce.com/__media__/js/netsoltrademark.php?d=azithromycins.online]zithromax 250 price[/url] zithromax online no prescription and [url=http://mail.empyrethegame.com/forum/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=242668]zithromax 250mg[/url] zithromax cost canada
Customer
All trends of medicament. Everything information about medication.
can i get clomid
All trends of medicament. Medscape Drugs & Diseases.
Customer
Everything what you want to know about pills. Read information now.
where buy generic propecia online
Commonly Used Drugs Charts. Everything information about medication.
Customer
ivermectin uk coronavirus cost of stromectol or ivermectin 6
http://marinehomeowner.com/__media__/js/netsoltrademark.php?d=stromectol.science ivermectin cost in usa
[url=http://arubarealestate.info/__media__/js/netsoltrademark.php?d=stromectol.science]ivermectin nz[/url] cost of ivermectin 3mg tablets and [url=https://forums.subglobal.net/member.php?action=profile&uid=68932]ivermectin 1%cream[/url] stromectol prices
Customer
All trends of medicament. earch our drug database.
[url=https://stromectolst.com/#]stromectol canada[/url]
Some trends of drugs. Prescription Drug Information, Interactions & Side.
Customer
earch our drug database. safe and effective drugs are available.
stromectol ireland
Everything information about medication. Everything about medicine.
Customer
Definitive journal of drugs and therapeutics. Prescription Drug Information, Interactions & Side.
ivermectin coronavirus
Top 100 Searched Drugs. Drug information.
Customer
Learn about the side effects, dosages, and interactions. Actual trends of drug.
https://stromectolst.com/# ivermectin brand name
Medicament prescribing information. Get warning information here.
Customer
minocycline 50 mg online minocycline 100 mg over the counter or ivermectin 2ml
http://geekpi.com/__media__/js/netsoltrademark.php?d=stromectol.science minocycline 50 mg acne
[url=http://thesnailstales.org/__media__/js/netsoltrademark.php?d=stromectol.science]stromectol tablets for humans for sale[/url] stromectol ebay and [url=http://www.byyysc.com/home.php?mod=space&uid=790017]buy ivermectin stromectol[/url] price of ivermectin tablets
Customer
Everything about medicine. earch our drug database.
stromectol 3 mg dosage
Definitive journal of drugs and therapeutics. All trends of medicament.
Customer
Read information now. Everything information about medication.
ivermectin lotion for lice
Definitive journal of drugs and therapeutics. Commonly Used Drugs Charts.
Customer
stromectol generic purchase ivermectin or ivermectin coronavirus
http://emmausreport.com/__media__/js/netsoltrademark.php?d=stromectolst.com ivermectin pills
[url=http://convergenceentertainmentllc.com/__media__/js/netsoltrademark.php?d=stromectolst.com]stromectol buy uk[/url] stromectol ivermectin 3 mg and [url=https://cardvilla.cc/members/464136.html]stromectol tablets buy online[/url] ivermectin 1mg
Customer
what is minocycline 50 mg used for stromectol ebay or minocycline 100 mg for sale
http://bifocalvision.com/__media__/js/netsoltrademark.php?d=stromectol.science cost of ivermectin 1% cream
[url=http://dentegragroup.net/__media__/js/netsoltrademark.php?d=stromectol.science]ivermectin 80 mg[/url] stromectol 15 mg and [url=http://www.wixin.xin/home.php?mod=space&uid=837270]stromectol 12mg[/url] ivermectin for sale
Customer
ivermectin generic cream stromectol buy uk or stromectol tablets uk
http://willowberrydesing.typedad.com/__media__/js/netsoltrademark.php?d=stromectolst.com stromectol without prescription
[url=http://aerocoasttocoast.com/__media__/js/netsoltrademark.php?d=stromectolst.com]stromectol in canada[/url] ivermectin cream 1% and [url=https://forexzloty.pl/members/234759-bzumkiyw]ivermectin humans[/url] ivermectin 3mg pill
Customer
Drugs information sheet. Read now.
https://stromectolst.com/# ivermectin generic name
Learn about the side effects, dosages, and interactions. Medscape Drugs & Diseases.
Customer
drug information and news for professionals and consumers. Some trends of drugs.
[url=https://stromectolst.com/#]ivermectin 80 mg[/url]
Cautions. Commonly Used Drugs Charts.
Customer
Cautions. Drugs information sheet.
https://stromectolst.com/# buy stromectol online
Cautions. п»їMedicament prescribing information.